The Japan food master list
Spilling ALL my secrets from Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka (with maps!!)
It’s been a couple of weeks since I got back from Japan and honestly, I’m still struggling to put into words just how amazing the trip was. Yes, there’s the famously spotless streets, the kindness and politeness everywhere, and the trains that are so punctual my British mind could’t quite comprehend it - but honestly, the food is what made the whole trip so special.
What totally blew me away wasn’t just the incredible ingredients or the care that goes into every single meal (even a quick Famichiki from FamilyMart comes perfectly wrapped in a little branded bag, with the juiciest fried chicken you’ve ever tasted - like almost worryingly juicy - how do they do it?!) - it was the sheer VOLUME of places to eat.
Once you look beyond the obvious street-level spots, you’ll find endless hidden gems (and ugh I hate that term but it’s actually true) - everything from tiny izakayas to secret omakases tucked up stairwells, down sketchy elevators, and into mysterious basements. Most of our meals started with a ‘wait, is this the right way?’ and at least a couple of wrong turns. Even the basement food courts in department stores were absolutely wild - think: the strawberriest(?!) strawberries, insanely over-the-top melons, sashimi platters, and firing grills loaded with the glossiest, most perfectly fried skewers.
With so much choice, it’s honestly overwhelming knowing where to start. I’d been saving every interesting spot I came across on Instagram and TikTok for months before the trip, and still ended up with Google Maps that were totally overflowing. So, here are a few of our absolute highlights in each city, plus my Google Maps lists - including all the places we didn’t make it to, in case you’re feeling ambitious. Tokyo’s list is by far the chunkiest, so I’ve split it by neighbourhoods for easy planning (and you’ll also find the hotels I recommended in last week’s newsletter pinned there too!).
Tokyo
Nakame no Teppen Honten
Address: Japan, 〒153-0051 Tokyo, Meguro City, Kamimeguro, 3 Chome−9−5 プラージュ・メグロ 1F
One of - if not THE - top dining experiences of our trip. A truly hidden izakaya (no English signage outside, and the entrance is a tiny, half-height doorway you have to crouch through). Step inside and it’s a full-on assault on the senses in the BEST way. Chefs shouting welcomes, smoke billowing from the massive open grill, and the smell of insanely good char-grilled meats and veggies everywhere. The mackerel is a must order.
Think Bakery
Address: Japan, 〒110-0002 Tokyo, Taito City, Uenosakuragi, 2 Chome−15−6 あたり２ 号棟１階
You all know I’m a bakery fiend and I firmly believe bakeries are the key to unlocking a city! From what I could tell, Japanese bakeries are all about the bread - not so much pastry or viennoiserie - but we stumbled across Think Bakery in Yanaka (a super cute, old-Tokyo neighbourhood) and it was SUCH a find. It’s tucked inside the Ueno-Sakuragi atari complex - a little cluster of historic houses with indie shops everywhere. Their scone selection was huge but I fell for the freshly baked mini madeleines.
Want even more?
I’ve been hoarding food spots for MONTHS before this trip - so behind the paywall, you’ll get my full, meticulously-researched Google Maps for Tokyo, packed with everywhere we went PLUS dozens of places I didn’t even make it to (next time!!). The ultimate Japan food maps - so you don’t have to waste hours trawling the internet. Tokyo is split by neighbourhoods for maximum convenience!