Your ultimate guide to Edinburgh
Where to eat & drink, stay and do - you've been asking for it for as long as I can remember and here it finally is!!!
It’s been a long time coming, but I figured the best way to kick off this newsletter would be to start on home turf, with my top pics of where to go in Edinburgh. I’ll keep this intro short and sweet (heaven forbid I become like those recipe blogs that tell a story about how their great-uncles beloved dog Bessie loved the smell of their oat cinnamon bars for about 5 full scrolls before it gets to the reason you clicked on that page) so let’s get cracking -
Eat & Drink
The holy grail of hand-ripped noodles. I’ve never had a bad dish here. Keep an eye out for their occasional special dinner events too - I went to their recent collab with London’s Top Cuvée which was brilliant. The restaurant is tiny so you’ll need to book - monitor their instagram stories for any cancellations.
The second newest in chef Stuart Ralston’s growing Edinburgh restaurant empire (Noto is also a great spot too - the crab butter is iconic), tipo focusses on homemade pastas and small plates and their cocktails are great too!
I will ALWAYS recommend it here when someone’s asking for somewhere for dinner. Ticks all my boxes (great wine list, seasonal, local ingredients, a laid back vibe) and they do a great value lunch set menu. It can get quite busy with bookings but the seats at the bar are actually my favourite.
Now, the following sections are usually reserved for paid subscribers - they’ll include all of my eat and drink recommendations for each place I’m featuring ALONG WITH my recommendations for what to do, and where to stay.
For this first edition of eat in everywhere, it felt only right that I open them up to everyone. Please consider subscribing at the link below to access this content every time I post (along with bonus weekly rundowns of whatever’s in my brain that week!)…
Okay, this one will require a bit of planning, not only because it’s out in Balerno but you’ll need to book your spot in advance when they release dates on their website - but it’s worth it! A farm to table restaurant where you’ll dine on long communal tables and get to know your neighbours. They also operate on a “Pay What You Think It’s Worth” basis.
The best sandwiches in town, with two branches - one in Leith and one in the Southside. Their menu is always changing but the meatball and chicken caesar sandwiches are my particular faves.
I describe this place as intimidatingly cool (in a good way!). Great coffee too.
The best cocktail bar (and this is coming from someone who doesn’t really like cocktail bars)! These guys know how to do aperitivo well, and you’ll get a wee bonus bowl of nuts with your drinks (I swear I’m not just being cheap and swayed by the freebies here - their negroni flights are fantastic)
Underneath Spry (a great little wine bar with small plates), you’ll find their sister venue, Ante. This bakery and cafe is a wee gem.
You’ll find me in their Stockbridge shop on a weekly basis. An ever-changing array of sweet treats - get down early for their cinnamon buns and bonus buns!
*the* bakery that with the queues. But oh my, are they worth it. Head down there early to grab some of the excellent viennoiserie or a little later for their cakes and savouries. Just don’t leave it too late or you’ll be greeted by their sold out A-board.
Hands-down the best breakfast in town. Perfect eggs every time! I love it so much, I even visited their original venue in Amsterdam on my last trip.
If those recommendations aren’t enough, I also have a Google Map with 150+ pins of food places I’d recommend. You can purchase it here.
Stay
I may be biased as I’m a member here but the gym here also might be the prettiest in town? If you plan ahead, try to coincide a stay with their monthly Brunch Club in their restaurant, The Spence.
Reasonably priced and centrally located aparthotel on George Street. I also love the minimal design of the rooms and their downstairs coffee shop, Mayvn.
Located right beside Waverley Station, this hotel is ideally located for hopping on a train. I recently visited their rooftop champagne bar, Nor Loft, for their fondue experience which has proved so popular they’ve added extra dates.
A great option for families or groups. They have a few different serviced apartment offerings dotted around the city. I’ve previously stayed in their sister property in St Andrews which is a great option up there too.
Another apart-hotel option with great dining options (Hawksmoor, Lady Libertine) onsite. They also have a CaveFit gym if you’re feeling brave (yes, yes I did almost feel like throwing up halfway through my first - and only - class there)
Do
Climb Calton Hill
I always recommend people start their visit up high and, imo, Calton Hill is a better option than Arthur’s Seat due to it’s central location and accessibility. Oh, and that there’s a great restaurant (The Lookout) up here too.
The Scottish galleries at the Scottish National Gallery
One for the rainy, cold days. These newly-opened galleries are dedicated to Scottish works (there’s a lot of them!) and are so thoughtfully curated.
Port of Leith Distillery
Now this is a recommendation that’s only going to get better with time. This is Scotland’s newest whisky distillery - that hasn’t even started distilling yet! Their tour is a great and informative experience for whisky novices and experts alike. Make sure to hear to their top floor bar afterwards for incredible views and tasty bar bites.
Stockbridge on a Sunday
Starting off with a browse around the Market (they also run one in Leith on a Saturday which is worth a visit too) - make sure to grab a coffee from the Bearded Barista - wander down Raeburn place poking your head into any shops that catch your eye. If it’s a sunny day, stop in at The Raeburn and luxuriate in their large beer garden. There’s also great dog watching to be done around the corner in Inverleith Park (mostly around the Milk hut as they’ll be sniffing around for some liver cake). Finish things off with a nosey around the Botanic Gardens. The iconic glasshouses may be closed for renovation but my favourite spot is the Queen Mother’s shell grotto and the neighbouring vegetable patch where you can have a look at what produce is in season at the moment.
This was one of my first posts to go viral on TikTok and you can see why! They show current releases along with occasional special occasion screenings. Popcorn is included in your ticket price!
Castle Terrace Farmer’s Market
A must for exploring scottish makers and ingredients! A particular shout out to the Cafe St Honoré stall that sells delicious cook at home meals made fresh in their tucked away central restaurant.
Frontier’s Woman (and Man)
Nestled away in the West End on the very quaint Williams Street you’ll find these two shops across the road from one another. They stock some of my favourite brands and the staff are so helpful. I must admit I do hold out for their large end of season sales too.
Independent Bookshop Crawl
Starting off at the glorious Topping’s and Co (pro tip - you can settle down with a cup of tea or coffee with your book in one of their coveted window seats!), then make your way down along the gorgeous St Stephen Street (where you’ll find a plethora of fab independent shops including Treen, Jorum Studio and Skinny Pig Vintage) to Golden Hare Books. This shop is particularly great for any little ones as they have a well-curated children’s section. Continuing on into Stockbridge, you’ll find Rare Birds Books who specialise in female authors. A route that is sure to make you the envy of your Goodreads followers.
That’s it for this instalment - as you’ll be reading this I’ll be on my way to a weekend in gay Paree (keep an eye on my Instagram and TikTok for more content from the trip!). We’re currently sitting at a google map that has 25 coffee places pinned for a 2.5 day trip and you best believe I’ll be trying my hardest to visit them all!!